DIY Awning Installation - Page 2

Installing the Brackets on Wood-Framed Walls
You must first locate the studs, joists or header in the area in which the bracket is to be installed as explained earlier in LOCATING THE BRACKETS. Use your stud finder to locate the stud or joists. I know we spent a lot of time indicating where the brackets should be located across the frame. Now you have discovered the studs that you need to fasten to are not allowing to follow the recommended bracket placement. You will simply have to place the brackets as close to the recommended positions as possible. This is where an extra bracket would be helpful.

Determine where the center of the studs are and draw a 7" vertical level line. (Never guess to the center of the stud.) Position the bracket holes centered over the vertical level line and the top of the bracket, even with the horizontal chalk line. Mark both bracket holes and drill 1/4" pilot holes square to the wall 2 1/2" into the stud or joist. This will prevent the framing from splitting while installing the lags. Use a silicone sealant to fill all of the 1/8" holes. If done properly the mounting bracket will cover all the 1/8" holes. Install the bracket with a 3/8" diameter lag using a length that will penetrate the framing 2 1/2" to 3". Use a flat washer under the head of the lag. Make sure not to over tighten the lags; to do so may split the wood framing or weaken the lag.

Soffit Mount - "Soft" Walls (Shingles, Vinyl, or Aluminum Siding, Clapboards). This type of construction requires the use of spacers or shims under the brackets to insure that they are level and to avoid crushing the soft material when the brackets are tightened. It is not advisable to cut openings in the siding and recess the brackets, since this will not allow sufficient clearance for the lateral arm clamps (#1). Hood and end covers are not an available option when installing to an overhead soffit.

The best way to deal with a "soft" wall is with spacer blocks cut out of pressure treated lumber, 1" or 1 1/2" thick by the width and height of the mounting bracket. Use a spacer for each bracket. After locating the studs for each mounting bracket, place the spacer on the siding in the exact location where your bracket is to be mounted. Trace all four sides of the spacer on the wall. Using a small circular saw to cut the siding, remove the cut piece of siding and place the spacer into the opening to assure the proper fit. Drill two 1/2" diameter holes into the spacer to align with bracket holes. Drill the two 1/4" pilot holes square into the framing for your brackets.

Insert the spacer into the opening and place the mounting bracket on top and lag both into wall. Be sure to seal around the spacer and the siding. An alternative method where the "soft" wall is flat, is to lag a 2" x 8" header the length of the awning, at the proper height, and bolt the brackets, to it. With clapboards or shingles, tapered shims may also be used under the brackets.

Bowed Walls
You may find when stretching a chalk line from one bracket to another, that the wall is bowed. In this case, either the end brackets or the intermediate brackets must be spaced outward from the wall by shims to insure proper alignment.

Masonry or Concrete Walls
Our wall mounting brackets are also used when installing any of the "SunDown" retractable awnings on masonry and concrete walls. Follow the same procedure to locate each bracket as earlier explained in locating the brackets.

Always use caution when choosing masonry or concrete fasteners to mount the brackets. When mounting on any masonry or concrete surface be certain that the wall has not deteriorated. If this is the case through-bolting may be necessary, When mounting on typical hollow core block walls you will need to through-bolt or use a high quality toggle bolt. Due to the many variations of masonry installation, we strongly recommend you call your local fastener supplier for their recommendations on choosing the proper concrete anchors.

Roof-Mount Installation
Roof-mount brackets are an option used in addition to the no-charge standard wall mount brackets provided. We encourage roof-mount brackets to be used to mount a header between the roof-mount brackets which in turn mount to the standard wall mount brackets. The number of roof mount brackets, using this installation procedure, is usually 1/2 of the standard brackets we provide; i.e., if 6 standard wall mount brackets are included with the awning, you only need 3 adjustable roof-mount brackets.

Locate the center of each of the roof rafters. Then, place the roof bracket approximately 1' back from the edge of the roof. Note: I have found some roof edges can be rotted. Do not attach the brackets in rotten roof structure. If you have found some weakening of the roof structure it would be prudent to fix that before installing the awning.

Align the elongated holes of the lower plate over the rafters and mark their position. Carefully pilot drill a 1/4" hole at a 90 degree angle into the rafter where marked, and apply a 1/2" high bead of silicone sealant in a 2" circle around each hole. Apply a 1/2" bead of silicone sealant to the underside of the roof bracket, along the left, right and top edges to form a horseshoe of sealant leaving the bottom open.

Bolt all brackets to the roof using a 3/8" diameter lag and a length that will penetrate the rafter 2 1/2" to 3". Adjust the roof mount bracket angle accordingly and fasten the adjusting plates.

Bolt a continuous pressure treated 2" by 8" along the top edge of the roof mount brackets. Using 1/2" diameter carriage bolts fasten all "SunDown" mounting brackets in their proper location to the 2"x 8" lumber. You may install the “SunDown” mounting brackets directly to the roof mount brackets, eliminating the need for a 2"x 8" header board. The header board is the preferred method.

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